Plumeria Care

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Guide to Coco Coir Growing Media

When picking out the right growing media for Plumeria there are several things to consider.  After reading the labels, you actually became more confused than before.

The scoop on growing media. First off, it needs to be stated that technically all of the “potting soils” sold in grow shops and gardens centers are actually soilless mixes because they do not contain any of the natural soil components including: sand, silt or clay. Choosing your media, watering and fertilizing habits are key to successful plumeria growing.

Soilless Growing Media

Soilless growing is great and has easily become the method of choice for plumeria growers because of its superior properties, and ease of amending. Soilless media allows for the ultimate control over desired inputs, drainage properties, pH and nutrient control. The most common soilless potting mixes are made with one of two bases.

The most common base is Coco Coir. This media is 100% natural and made from coconut husk fibers. It is generally a finely ground blend with some desired variation. It has the perfect air to water ratio, and thus is hard to over water. Coco coir also has a high CEC encouraging optimal nutrient release. Due to its superior qualities Coco coir allows for rapid growth. Keep in mind that with Coco coir bases, Calcium -Magnesium supplementation may be needed.

If it is not a coco coir base, it is generally a peat based mix. Peat is partially decayed and dried sphagnum moss. It is extremely high in organic matter, and retains moisture better than coco coir. Thus, it is not as forgiving if you over water. By itself, peat usually has a very low pH, between 3 and 5. In potting mixes you can help balance the acidity with the addition of lime. For a peat based potting mix our go to of choice is Pro-Mix.

Amendments

Once you’ve decided which base is best for your growing conditions, next you have the soilless amendments. Amendments help define the final properties of the mix, which is customized for health growth results. Common amendments include the following, and added for the following reasons.

  • Perlite: increases drainage and aeration
  • Dolomite lime: buffers pH, provides calcium and magnesium
  • Worm castings: natural source of nitrogen, enhances beneficial microbe population
  • Mycorrhizae: symbiotic growth on and around roots, increases water and nutrient uptake
  • Azomite: buffers pH, slow release of micronutrients
  • Oyster shell: buffers pH, provides calcium
  • Dried kelp: source of potassium and natural plant hormones
  • Alfalfa meal: organic source of balanced fertilizer, amino acids and triacontanol
  • Feather meal: source of organic slow release nitrogen
  • Fishbone meal: organic source of phosphorus and calcium

Typical Ground or Garden Soil

Soil is used almost exclusively in outdoor growing. Its composition varies from place to place and consists of countless natural and native components. These components include mineral particles- sand, silt, and clay (45% collectively), air (20-30%), water (20-30%), organic matter (1-6%), microorganisms and the ever pervasive weed seed.  Organic (carbonaceous) matter, often referred to as humus, is composed of decaying plant and animal remains. Microorganisms include both beneficial and harmful bacteria and fungi. Weed seeds are one of the grower’s greatest foes. Not only are they a nuisance, but they also compete with your crop for water and nutrients.

Since the composition changes from area to area, the properties change along with it. Soil with a healthy ratio of soil particles and organic matter will have good drainage. If the soil is compacted with low aeration, roots and plant growth will struggle. Conversely, if there is too much drainage, growth will also be hindered due to a lack of water and nutrient retention.

Along with your soil composition changing from area to area with soil, so will your soil fertility. The most important aspects of soil fertility to keep in mind include the presence and amount of organic matter, macro and micro nutrients, pH and CEC. There are various amendments and fertilizers that can help you achieve desired results in an outdoor setting.

Why and How to Use Vitazyme

Posted on by PlumeriaDB

Why and How to Use Vitazyme

Vitazyme is a liquid concentrate microbially synthesized from plant materials and then stabilized for long life. Powerful but natural biostimulants contained in the material greatly benefit plant growth and soil conditions to boost growth and profits for the grower.

Vitazyme is non-toxic. It is organic, safe, and sustainable and has an array of active agents, including:

Known Ingredients in Vitazyme (all derived from natural materials):

Brassinosteroids 0.022mg/ml
1-triacontanol 0.33 ug/ml
Vitamin B1 (thiamin) 0.35 mg/100g
Vitamin B2 (riboflavin 0.25 mg/100g
Vitamin B6 0.15 mg/100g

Vitazyme is an all-natural liquid “biostimulant” for soil organisms and plants that contain certain biological activators, which are by-products of a proprietary fermentation process. These active agents include vitamins, enzymes, and other powerful but gentle growth stimulators such as B-vitamins, triacontanol, glycosides, and porphyrins.

Vitazyme, used within the context of a common-sense management system, will help the farmer overcome many of his production problems. While not a “magic bullet,” it helps the entire system work better.

Agriculture of today must emphasize the use of biological systems — not strictly chemical approaches — to achieve long-term soil productivity.

The product promotes soil life by conforming with natural laws, encouraging natural predators to control insect and nematode pests, promoting more intensive biological nitrogen fixation, and by stimulating natural rhizosphere organisms to produce needed plant growth factors.

Investigations are continuing on other components:

Likely phytoactive components which will be discovered include the following:

  • Various porphyrins (chlorophyll derivatives)
  • Various glycosides (glucose derivatives)
  • Salicylic acid or salicylates
  • Amino acids such as methionine and others
  • Nucleic acid remnants or precursors
  • Nucleotides, especially adenine but possibly others
  • Gallic acid
  • Glucuronic acid
  • Various enzymes

Benefits to Soils

Soil structure, so critical for air and water movement through the soil to facilitate root growth and nutrient uptake, is improved by Vitazyme in at least four ways:

  1. Increased root growth (more root channels).
  2. More polysaccharides glue particles together; only 0.2% more polysaccharides can markedly improve structure.
  3. Improved mycorrhizae activity (creating sac-like structures)
  4. Greater earthworm activity, their burrows create channels for air and water. Water infiltration is increased, and runoff and erosion are consequently decreased. Compaction is reduced so roots can freely explore the soil for nutrients and water, increasing yields.

How Vitazyme benefits Plumeria

Vitazyme will increase chlorophyll first, allowing the plumeria to harness more energy from the sun. The plumeria will develop a larger and more efficient root system and working in conjunction with the microbial population in the rhizosphere will convert more nutrients from a non-uptake able form to forms that can be taken up by the plumeria. In this way, the soil system becomes more efficient and is the main reason why we say you can lower your nutrient inputs using Vitazyme. This, in part, explains the typical results of greater yield and quality measures for any crop.

  • Greater root and leaf growth
  • More and bigger blossoms
  • Improved soil conditions
  • Inexpensive, very cost-effective
  • Easy to use
  • Safe and non-toxic
  • Can be seed-applied
  • Can be tank-mixed with any liquid fertilizers, herbicides, and pesticides
  • Can run through irrigation lines without clogging
Soil Benefits

Corn Yield

Vitazyme applied through the irrigation system–drip, sprinkler, or sprayed–will accelerate the growth and maturity of plumeria, in containers or in the ground. Trunk caliper will increase faster as photosynthesis and leaf areas are accelerated. Vitazyme will improve the roots, leaf, and flower growth.

Treated seeds will emerge faster, and seedling growth will be more vigorous. Improved chlorophyll development will give faster nutrition, deeper green colors, and more lustrous and attractive leaves. Vitazyme will also aid in the early development of flowers.

Expect better tilth and permeability in your soil with Vitazyme use.

 

Vitazyme Science

Vitazyme intensifies the activity of the plant-soil system. Photosynthesis is increased, so more carbon from the air is fixed into plant tissue. Energy-rich compounds produced in the leaves by this vigorous metabolism move into the root system and out into the soil, or media where billions of bacteria, algae, fungi, protozoa, and other organisms feed on this energy. The organisms, in turn, release minerals and growth stimulants for plant uptake…a beautiful symbiosis. Plant stress is reduced, removing growth and yield limitations.

Vitazyme Stimulates Rhizosphere Symbiosis

Vitazyme contains “metabolic triggers” that stimulate the plant to photosynthesize better, fixing more sunlight energy in the form of carbon compounds to increase the transfer of carbohydrates, proteins, and other growth substances into the root zone. These active agents may enter the plant through either the leaves or the roots. Root growth and exudation are both enhanced. This enhancement activates the metabolism of the teeming population of rhizosphere organisms to a higher level, triggering a greater synthesis of growth-benefitting compounds and a faster release of minerals for plant uptake. The plant microbial symbiosis is stimulated.

 Symbiotic Cycle

The Enzyme Cascade Effect

Very small amounts of these metabolic triggers in Vitazyme are needed to greatly improve plant and rhizosphere microbe response. This is because of the enzyme cascade effect. Successive tiers of enzymes are activated in plant and microbial tissues to yield a large physiological response from a very little applied activator.

In short, Vitazyme enables the plant to better express its genetic potential by reducing the stresses that repress that expression.

 Cascade effect

Improved Symbiosis: The Secret of Vitazyme’s Action

All plants that grow in soils develop an intimate relationship between the roots and the organisms that populate the root zone. The teeming billions of bacteria, fungi, algae, cyanobacteria, protozoa, and other organisms that grow along the root surfaces—the rhizosphere—are much more plentiful than in the bulk of the soil. This is because roots feed the organisms with dead root epidermal cells as well as compounds exuded from the roots themselves. The plant may inject up to 25% or more of its energy, fixed in the leaves as carbohydrates, amino acids, and other compounds, into the root zone to feed these organisms… for a very good purpose.

The microorganisms which feed on these exuded carbon compounds along the root surfaces benefit the plant in many ways… a beautiful symbiotic relationship.

The plant feeds the bacteria, fungi, algae, and other microbial species in the rhizosphere, which in turn secrete enzymes, organic acids, antibiotics, growth regulators, hormones, and other substrates which are absorbed by the roots and transported to the leaves. The acids help dissolve essential minerals, and reduced iron releases anionic elements.

A few important microbe groups are listed below.
Mycorrhizae Mycorrhizae, especially vascular-arbuscular (VAM) tyes, form “arbuscules” within root cortical cells and extend thread-like hyphae into the soil, increasing the root feed surface by ten times or more. They are the major means for uptake of phosphorus, copper, zinc, and other less mobile elements. They also can extract water under much drier conditions than can root plants.
Cyanobacteria Cyanobacteria fix carbon (they photosynthesize), and also fix nitrogen from the air for plant use.
Phosphate-dissolving bacteria Phosphate-dissolving bacteria excrete acids that dissolve minerals and release hard-to-get phosphorus.
Azotobacter Azotobacter species live on exudates and other carbon sources while fixing nitrogen.
Actinomycetes Actinomycetes generate a variety of pathogen-fighting antibiotics.

 

How to Use Vitazyme with Plumeria

Potted Plumeria and Typical Gardens

Simply use Vitazyme once a month during the growing season.  You can drench or water Vitazyme by hand at a rate of .9% (1 oz./gallon) over top of both the plumeria and the soil.  Of course keep in mind watering times, not because Vitazyme will burn a plant (it certainly won’t), but rather follow good practices to reduce mildews and enhance water conservation.

You can also apply Vitazyme with any spray tank.  We would recommend a 4% (5 oz./gallon) rate sprayed directly on the plants until run-off. Vitazyme will flow through all spray rigs, irrigation rigs including drip irrigation, and through seeders with an in-furrow injection so you don’t have to worry about clogging, and have many options for applications.

A good sized garden will use less than a gallon of Vitazyme per season. Vitazyme can be stored almost indefinitely, so any leftover will be good the following season, and not wasted.

Vitazyme can tank mix with any herbicide, fungicide, pesticide, or fertilizer without issue, we always recommend applying Vitazyme as part of your individual fertility/control programs. This way you will save on application costs for Vitazyme alone.  Vitazyme is flexible enough so that if the recommended timing of applications varies a bit from your typical practice, you can still use it and gain valuable results.

Generally, plumeria will use 4-5 applications over the growing season. This will be defined more specifically in the guide.  Remember, the guide is just that, a guide.  Your growing conditions will help to dictate the exact timing of applications.

Vitazyme should be used within the context of a complete crop management system, never by itself. Vitazyme will optimize your existing program by enabling your plumeria to utilize soil fertility and water more efficiently while reducing costs and increasing productivity. This product is very effective with low nitrogen. Follow this easy-to-use five-point program.

  1. If possible, analyze the soil at the USDA or a reputable laboratory and correct mineral deficiencies and imbalances with expert consultation.
  2. Treating plumeria seeds or transplant roots, if possible, at planting. Treat seeds with a diluted Vitazyme solution, such as a 5% solution (4 oz./gallon). For excellent results, dip the seeds in the solution and allow to dry. For transplanting soak for approximately 30 minutes or spray transplant roots with a or 2% solution (2.5 oz./gallon).
  3. Apply Vitazyme to the soil in Early Spring. After the initial application Vitazyme can be applied monthly. A fall application on the soil is effective to accelerate residue breakdown.
  4. Integrate other, sustainable management practices into the total program.

Application Rates

  • Seeds, Cuttings, and Transplants. For faster emergence and rooting, dilute at a rate of 1 oz/19 oz of water (a 5% solution) and mist all exposed areas. Allow seeds to dry prior to planting.
  • Potted Plumeria Application. For drenching, dilute at a rate of 1 oz/99 oz of water (a 1% solution). For foliage spraying, dilute at a rate of 4 oz/gallon (a 5% solution)
  • In-Ground Plumeria (for all temperate fields). Drench or spray Foliage dilute at a rate of 4 oz/gallon (a 5% solution)
  • Soil Conditioning (for all temperate fields and in-ground plumeria). Apply 4 oz/gallon (a 5% solution) before ground freezing

Tips

  • Vitazyme may be tank-mixed with fertilizers, herbicides, fungicides, and pesticides.
  • Vitazyme does not need to be tilled into the soil after application.
  • The dilution rate is not critical as long as the proper application is made.
  • Soil moisture is needed to activate Vitazyme.
  • Vitazyme can be stored almost indefinitely, so no loss of investment.

Proven Efficient

Vitazyme used with your normal, sound plumeria management practices Vitazyme will increase your yields sufficiently so that you realize a substantial increase in plumeria health and productivity.

You will find that you can reduce your nitrogen input, usually between 25% and 50%, and obtain the same or higher crop yields. Nitrogen is rising in cost and is likely to remain high in the future. Saving money on your fertilizer purchases will increase your profits when using Vitazyme.

Why use Bioblast

The future of Plumeria health is here.

Bioblast is more than a fertilizer 7-7-7 NPK, it’s a Plant Food & Biostimulant. Bioblast is innovation for your plumeria or other plants and is the ultimate plant food and growth activator for all your growing needs.

Introducing BioBlast an all natural organic Bio Activator with Rooting Agents Growth Activators and Vitamins B-1, B-2, and B-3. It makes your plants healthy. You can apply as a drench or as foliare.
The future of plant growth is here. Bioblast is innovation for your plants and is the ultimate plant food and growth activator for all your growing needs.

Why Bioblast?

Bioblast works with every part of your plant. Soil organisms are invigorated with Vitazyme biostimulants providing quicker, more vigorous growth. Rooting is encouraged with our Root Activator. A balanced 7-7-7 NPK provides the essentials of plant growth and structure. B-Vitamins and Zinc encourage a robust immune system, while Iron promotes chlorophyll production in the leaves. Bioblast is a great foliar feed for growing plumeria seedlings.

• PLANT FOOD
• B-VITAMINS
• ROOTING AGENT
• BIO-ACTIVATORS

Guaranteed Analysis

  • Total Nitrogen (N)…. 7.00%
    • 2.20% Ammoniacal Nitrogen
    • 4.80% Urea Nitrogen
  • Available Phosphate (P2O5)… 7.00%
  • Soluble Potash (K2O)… 7.00%
  • Sulfur (S)… 0.10%
  • Iron (Fe) 0.40%
  • Zinc (Zn) 0.03%

Application

Mix 1 Tbsp per gallon of water – or 2 capfuls if you don’t have a measure. Apply once per week or as needed. Reduce by 50% during extreme heat or for indoor plants. Safe when used as directed. Will not harm roots or leaves even in hot, dry weather.

Great for use on all types of plants, for soil improvement, or as a compost starter.

 

Why Use Vitazyme

Posted on by PlumeriaDB

Why Use Vitazyme

Vitazyme is a liquid concentrate microbially synthesized from plant materials and then stabilized for long life. Powerful but natural biostimulants contained in the material greatly benefit plant growth and soil conditions to boost growth and profits for the grower.

Vitazyme is non-toxic. It is organic, safe, and sustainable and has an array of active agents, including:

Known Ingredients in Vitazyme (all derived from natural materials):

Brassinosteroids 0.022mg/ml
1-triacontanol 0.33 ug/ml
Vitamin B1 (thiamin) 0.35 mg/100g
Vitamin B2 (riboflavin 0.25 mg/100g
Vitamin B6 0.15 mg/100g

Vitazyme is an all-natural liquid “biostimulant” for soil organisms and plants that contain certain biological activators, which are by-products of a proprietary fermentation process. These active agents include vitamins, enzymes, and other powerful but gentle growth stimulators such as B-vitamins, triacontanol, glycosides, and porphyrins.

Vitazyme, used within the context of a common-sense management system, will help the farmer overcome many of his production problems. While not a “magic bullet,” it helps the entire system work better.

Agriculture of today must emphasize the use of biological systems — not strictly chemical approaches — to achieve long-term soil productivity.

The product promotes soil life by conforming with natural laws, encouraging natural predators to control insect and nematode pests, promoting more intensive biological nitrogen fixation, and stimulating natural rhizosphere organisms to produce needed plant growth factors.

Investigations are continuing on other components:

Likely phytoactive components which will be discovered include the following:

  • Various porphyrins (chlorophyll derivatives)
  • Various glycosides (glucose derivatives)
  • Salicylic acid or salicylates
  • Amino acids such as methionine and others
  • Nucleic acid remnants or precursors
  • Nucleotides, especially adenine but possibly others
  • Gallic acid
  • Glucuronic acid
  • Various enzymes

Benefits to Soils

Soil structure, so critical for air and water movement through the soil to facilitate root growth and nutrient uptake, is improved by Vitazyme in at least four ways:

  1. Increased root growth (more root channels).
  2. More polysaccharides glue particles together; only 0.2% more polysaccharides can markedly improve structure.
  3. Improved mycorrhizae activity (creating sac-like structures)
  4. Greater earthworm activity, their burrows create channels for air and water. Water infiltration is increased, and runoff and erosion are consequently decreased. Compaction is reduced so roots can freely explore the soil for nutrients and water, increasing yields.

How Vitazyme benefits Plumeria

Vitazyme will increase chlorophyll first, allowing the plumeria to harness more energy from the sun. The plumeria will develop a larger and more efficient root system and working in conjunction with the microbial population in the rhizosphere will convert more nutrients from a non-uptake able form to forms that can be taken up by the plumeria. In this way, the soil system becomes more efficient and is the main reason why we say you can lower your nutrient inputs using Vitazyme. This, in part, explains the typical results of greater yield and quality measures for any crop.

  • Greater root and leaf growth
  • More and bigger blossoms
  • Improved soil conditions
  • Inexpensive, very cost-effective
  • Easy to use
  • Safe and non-toxic
  • Can be seed-applied
  • Can be tank-mixed with any liquid fertilizers, herbicides, and pesticides
  • Can run through irrigation lines without clogging
Soil Benefits

Corn Yield

Vitazyme applied through the irrigation system–drip, sprinkler, or sprayed–will accelerate the growth and maturity of plumeria, in containers or in the ground. Trunk caliper will increase faster as photosynthesis and leaf areas are accelerated. Vitazyme will improve the roots, leaf, and flower growth.

Treated seeds will emerge faster, and seedling growth will be more vigorous. Improved chlorophyll development will give faster nutrition, deeper green colors, and more lustrous and attractive leaves. Vitazyme will also aid in the early development of flowers.

Expect better tilth and permeability in your soil with Vitazyme use.

 

Vitazyme Science

Vitazyme intensifies the activity of the plant-soil system. Photosynthesis is increased, so more carbon from the air is fixed into plant tissue. Energy-rich compounds produced in the leaves by this vigorous metabolism move into the root system and out into the soil, or media where billions of bacteria, algae, fungi, protozoa, and other organisms feed on this energy. The organisms, in turn, release minerals and growth stimulants for plant uptake…a beautiful symbiosis. Plant stress is reduced, removing growth and yield limitations.

Vitazyme Stimulates Rhizosphere Symbiosis

Vitazyme contains “metabolic triggers” that stimulate the plant to photosynthesize better, fixing more sunlight energy in the form of carbon compounds to increase the transfer of carbohydrates, proteins, and other growth substances into the root zone. These active agents may enter the plant through either the leaves or the roots. Root growth and exudation are both enhanced. This enhancement activates the metabolism of the teeming population of rhizosphere organisms to a higher level, triggering a greater synthesis of growth-benefitting compounds and a faster release of minerals for plant uptake. The plant microbial symbiosis is stimulated.

 Symbiotic Cycle

The Enzyme Cascade Effect

Very small amounts of these metabolic triggers in Vitazyme are needed to greatly improve plant and rhizosphere microbe response. This is because of the enzyme cascade effect. Successive tiers of enzymes are activated in plant and microbial tissues to yield a large physiological response from a very little applied activator.

In short, Vitazyme enables the plant to better express its genetic potential by reducing the stresses that repress that expression.

 Cascade effect

Improved Symbiosis: The Secret of Vitazyme’s Action

All plants that grow in soils develop an intimate relationship between the roots and the organisms that populate the root zone. The teeming billions of bacteria, fungi, algae, cyanobacteria, protozoa, and other organisms that grow along the root surfaces—the rhizosphere—are much more plentiful than in the bulk of the soil. This is because roots feed the organisms with dead root epidermal cells as well as compounds exuded from the roots themselves. The plant may inject up to 25% or more of its energy, fixed in the leaves as carbohydrates, amino acids, and other compounds, into the root zone to feed these organisms… for a very good purpose.

The microorganisms which feed on these exuded carbon compounds along the root surfaces benefit the plant in many ways… a beautiful symbiotic relationship.

The plant feeds the bacteria, fungi, algae, and other microbial species in the rhizosphere, which in turn secrete enzymes, organic acids, antibiotics, growth regulators, hormones, and other substrates which are absorbed by the roots and transported to the leaves. The acids help dissolve essential minerals, and reduced iron releases anionic elements.

A few important microbe groups are listed below.
Mycorrhizae Mycorrhizae, especially vascular-arbuscular (VAM) tyes, form “arbuscules” within root cortical cells and extend thread-like hyphae into the soil, increasing the root feed surface by ten times or more. They are the major means for uptake of phosphorus, copper, zinc, and other less mobile elements. They also can extract water under much drier conditions than can root plants.
Cyanobacteria Cyanobacteria fix carbon (they photosynthesize), and also fix nitrogen from the air for plant use.
Phosphate-dissolving bacteria Phosphate-dissolving bacteria excrete acids that dissolve minerals and release hard-to-get phosphorus.
Azotobacter Azotobacter species live on exudates and other carbon sources while fixing nitrogen.
Actinomycetes Actinomycetes generate a variety of pathogen-fighting antibiotics.

Why Use Carl Pool Root Activator

Posted on by PlumeriaDB

Why Use Carl Pool Root Activator

Carl Pool Root Activator is a 100% natural product that safely promotes the regeneration of roots through increased elongation rates. Root Activator stimulates fast root growth, reduces transplant shock, and hastens plant establishment. Use on all newly planted or transplanted plants and soil, and any time additional root growth is desired to reach the potential of underperforming plants.

Carl Pool’s Root Activator contains 7.5% glycosides. It prevents transplant shock and stimulates fast root growth.

  • Concentrated Formula
  • Prevents Transplant Shock
  • Stimulates Fast Root Growth
  • Increases Plant Root Mass

Ingredients:

Active:

Glycosides 7.5%
Gibberellin 0.03%
3-Indoleacetic Acid 0.02%
Kinetin 0.02%

Inert: 92.43%

Description: Natural glycosides derived from pecan shells and water. Glycosides are compounds that comprise a wide array of substances that make up a significant proportion of the cellular and tissue contents of plants and as a critical influence on plants in the roots, stem, and leaf development. Beneficial flavonoids often occur as glycosides; some important as coloring agents for flowers to attract insects and birds while others promote disease resistance. Carl Pool Root Activator prevents transplanting shock and stimulates fast root growth and forking of the root system.

Application Recommendations:

  • Mix 1 pint to 5 gallons of water or 8 Tbsp. to 1 gallon of water. Saturate the entire root area of a plant. Repeat every 30 days until desired results are achieved.
  • Plumeria plant in containers: Use from 1 to 5 gallons of the diluted solution around each plant depending on the size of the pot and root area.
  • Plumeria Trees in Ground: Saturate the entire area within the drip line. Use from 3 – 10 gallons of the diluted solution around each tree depending on the size of trunk diameter.

Soil pH and its Importance

Soil pH

(a measure of the acidity or alkalinity of the soil) Soil pH is one of the most important soil properties that affects the availability of nutrients.

  • Macronutrients tend to be less available in soils with low pH.
  • Micronutrients tend to be less available in soils with high pH.

Lime – can be added to the soil to make it less sour (acid) and also supplies calcium and magnesium for plants to use. Lime also raises the pH to the desired range of 6.0 to 6.5.

In this pH range, nutrients are more readily available to plants, and microbial populations in the soil increase. Microbes convert nitrogen and sulfur to forms that plants can use. Lime also enhances the physical properties of the soil that promote water and air movement.

It is a good idea to have your soil tested. If you do, you will get a report that explains how much lime and fertilizer your crop needs.

 

pH Testing

Because of the specific requirements for proper mineral uptake it is important to test the pH of three things: your water, your fertilizer solution and your growing medium.  Litmus paper, and pH drops are reliable enough for generalizations and maintaining a healthy system.  However, if a problem is noticed, then a more accurate method should be employed.  A high quality pH meter can be used to test water, fertilizer solution, as well as growth medium. The most popular tool used to test pH is BlueLab pH Pen because of its versatility and ease of use. We also suggest the Myron L Ultrapen PT2 for the most accurate reading. Unlike its competitors it reads the pH to the hundredths place, which can be very important when you consider that pH is a logarithmic scale. For a more in depth look at your solution’s total dissolved solids, we suggest the BlueLab Combo Meter. This meter measures pH, EC, has a replaceable probe and a 5 year warranty.

pH Adjusting

In fertilizer solutions, using a pH up or down solution may be required in order to achieve the preferred acidity or alkalinity. PH up generally consists of Potassium Bicarbonate and/or Sodium Bicarbonate.  PH down is most popularly Phosphoric Acid and/or Citric Acid.  The ingredients of the pH solution used, as well as the ingredients of the nutrient solution will determine short term and long term stability of the pH of the solution.  Bicarbonates can have long lasting effects on the media environment and should be used in hydroponic gardening, or very sparingly for soil.  In soil, Dolomite Lime should be the go-to ingredient for long term pH stabilization.  Phosphoric Acid, which is ideal for hydroponics, can keep solutions stable for much longer than a Citric Acid based pH solution, but may not be better to acidify a soil grow. One of our favorite organic pH adjusters is Vitazyme and Carl Pool’s Root Activator.

Understanding Plumeria Dormancy

Understanding Plumeria Dormancy

Dormancy, state of reduced metabolic activity adopted by many organisms under conditions of environmental stress or, often, as in winter, when such stressful conditions are likely to appear.

In plant physiology, dormancy is a period of arrested plant growth. It is a survival strategy exhibited by many plant species, which enables them to survive in climates where part of the year is unsuitable for growth, such as winter or dry seasons.

Plant dormancy

In plant physiology, dormancy is a period of arrested plant growth. It is a survival strategy exhibited by many plant species, which enables them to survive in climates where part of the year is unsuitable for growth, such as winter or dry seasons.

Innate dormancy occurs whether or not external conditions are suitable. Most plants of temperate regions, such as maples, pass through a phase of innate dormancy coinciding with an unfavorable season. But several species of annual weeds like groundsel (Senecio vulgaris), shepherd’s purse (Capsella bursa-pastoris), and chickweed (Cerastim spp.) show imposed dormancy only in the very cold weather.

Plant species that exhibit dormancy have a biological clock that tells them to slow activity and to prepare soft tissues for a period of freezing temperatures or water shortage. This clock works through decreased temperatures, shortened photoperiod, or a reduction in rainfall. In higher plants, innate dormancy involves seeds, underground organs such as rhizomes, corms, or tubers, and the winter buds of woody twigs.

Seed dormancy

Plumeria seeds do not germinate as soon as they are formed and dispersed. They wait until favorable conditions are present. Thus, dormancy helps to keep the seed viable for months or even years. Plumeria seeds have been known to germinate after 10 years or more. However, the germination rate does decrease over the years.

A plumeria seed dormancy is considered to be seed coat dormancy or external dormancy, and is caused by the presence of a hard seed covering or seed coat that prevents water and oxygen from reaching and activating the embryo.

Under normal conditions, the plumeria seed matures on the tree in approximately 9 months. The seeds will stay in a dormant state until they are exposed to warm temperatures and moisture. In nature after the seed pod opens the seed coat is weakened via a process called scarification by abrasion in the soil, by the action of soil microorganisms, by moisture and warm temperatures.

Causes of Dormancy

The dormant state that is induced in an organism during periods of environmental stress may be caused by a number of variables. Those of major importance in contributing to the onset of dormancy include changes in temperature and photoperiod and the availability of nutrients, water, oxygen, and carbon dioxide. In general, because organisms normally exist within a relatively narrow temperature range, temperatures above or below the limits of this range can induce dormancy in certain organisms. Temperature changes also affect such other environmental parameters as the availability of nutrients, water, and oxygen, thus providing further stimuli for dormancy. The lack of water during summer periods of drought or winter periods of freezing, as well as annual changes in the duration and intensity of light, particularly at high latitudes, are other environmental factors that can induce dormant states.

Under natural conditions, most of the environmental variables that influence dormancy are interrelated in a cyclical pattern that is either circadian or annual. Fluctuations in the major daily variables—light and temperature—can induce rhythmical changes in the metabolic activity of an organism; annual fluctuations in temperature and photoperiod can influence the availability of nutrients and water.

Since plumeria can live for many decades or even centuries they must have mechanisms in place which allow them to survive dry periods. Dormancy is a phase in development that allows y plumeria to survive these unfavorable conditions. Plumeria are tropical plants and overall cold hardiness will vary even in dormant plants, however, exposure to freezing temperatures will kill a plumeria plant.

Stages of Dormancy

The development of dormancy typically occurs in phases. The first phase is termed pre-dormancy. This early phase is reversible in that if the plumeria is returned to favorable growing conditions, in a greenhouse, for example, it will resume growth. As pre-dormancy develops the range of environmental conditions that allow growth to resume narrows. Following pre-dormancy if the plumeria enters true-dormancy. In true-dormancy growth will not resume even if the plant is returned to optimal growing conditions. It is believed that plumeria never enters into a true-dormancy state. The plumeria is often defoliated at this point, and a period of prolonged chilling is required before growth resumes. The final stage of dormancy is post-dormancy. This stage is typical of later winter and early spring. In post-dormancy, the plumeria is capable of growing, but it is still suppressed by adverse environmental conditions (e.g. low temperatures).

Environmental Triggers

LENGTH OF DAYLIGHT – The main environmental signal which triggers the onset of dormancy is the length of daylight. For most plumeria, long days promote vegetative growth and short days trigger dormancy. As days begin to get shorter in later summer growth slows, and eventually going dormant. It is actually the length of the night that is critical, not the length of the day. Short nights stimulate growth, long, uninterrupted nights stimulate dormancy. Length of daylight, of course, is a very reliable environmental signal since it is perfectly stable from year to year and plumeria will not be tricked into growing longer because of an abnormally warm fall. Length of daylight then is the primary trigger that results in the changes in growth regulator production which in turn results in dormancy development. The growth regulator abscisic acid (ABA) apparently plays a role in dormancy development and has been found to build up to high levels in the fall.

INFLUENCE OF TEMPERATURE – Decreasing temperatures also play a role in dormancy development. Short days cause the plumeria to enter pre-dormancy (and maybe even true-dormancy). It is believed by some researchers that cool temperatures are needed for the plant to enter true dormancy. Whatever the specific case, dormancy in many plumerias develops more quickly when short days occur in combination with cool temperatures.

INFLUENCE OF WATER AND NUTRITION – Both water supply and mineral nutrition also interact with dormancy induction. Water stress deepens dormancy and will result in defoliation. High mineral nutrition can result in delaying dormancy. This is particularly true with mineral nitrogen. High levels of nitrogen should never be given to plants in late summer or early fall since they may actually flush and resume growth. During dormancy do not fertilize and mildly water or mist stress plants only if signs of dehydration are visible.

Release from Dormancy

Some researchers believe that during short days in the fall ABA builds up to high levels and induces dormancy. Chilling may be responsible for the breaking down of ABA. Until enough hours have accumulated to remove the inhibitory effect of ABA the plumeria will not break dormancy. When the soil begins to warm, promoters of growth such as gibberellin and cytokinins build up, signaling the plumeria tips to resume growth.

Once the plumeria is in a post-dormant condition, warm temperatures and increasing day lengths are required for normal shoot expansion. Warm temperatures are probably the most critical environmental factor at this point. 

Growing Plumeria Indoors

Growing Plumeria Indoors
with All the Colors of the Rainbow

Growing plumeria indoors is not the best idea, you need to provide special lighting, watering, and misting, and you will not get as good growth or flower colors or production as outdoors. Mabe this article will help you learn about lighting and how important it is.

The impact that light has on the human eye is different than the effect it has on your plants. Plumeria takes in light to use in the photosynthesis process to convert energy into sugars to consume as food. Different colors of the light spectrum have varying impacts on the quality of your plants, the rate at which they grow, and when they fruit or flower. We had the chance to pick the brain of  John G from Sunlight Supply, that was nice enough to share his knowledge and expertise. Come ride the colors of the rainbow with us and learn more about how light spectrums and light exposure affect your plumeria.

Eye Spy With My Little Eye

To better understand what you are offering your plumeria when flipping that light switch, let’s break down some industry info. The light spectrum is measured in nanometers (Nm)- that’s one billionth of a meter. Typically, when evaluating the light spectrum you look at the realm of 380 Nm to 780 Nm. We call this the lumen scale.

Well, you only “see” the scale of 400-700 nm with the human eye. That’s why in the industry we tend to say that “lumens are for humans.”

Somewhere Over the Rainbow

The 400-700 nm scale is what we know as primary (red, blue, and yellow) and secondary colors (orange, green, indigo, and violet). Plumeria has the ability to see further into the ultraviolet (<390 nm)  and infrared (700+ nm)- the furthest ends of either side of the light spectrum. However, plumeria does not benefit from these extreme ends of the spectrum.

Plumeria experience infrared and ultraviolet in the same capacity that humans do. Infrared is perceived as warmth (1) and does not aid in any vitamin or chemical processes and ultraviolet (UV) rays will prohibit growth and can actually burn and kill the plant, much like overexposure can burn skin.

Mimicking the Great Outdoors

It is a true artist of a grower that can truly mimic the sun. When growing indoors, you are constantly attempting to recreate environmental factors within an enclosed space. From your ventilation system to your lighting, you are trying to mimic both the wind and the sun to trick your plants into believing they are in their natural habitat. Part of mimicking the free offerings of nature is attempting to recreate the seasons for your plants so they know when to flower and/or fruit.

Plumeria responds to the different colors of light due to their ability to trigger different stages of the growth cycle.  

Plumeria’s photoreceptors and hormones are affected when exposed to certain spectrums in different intensities. The segment of the light spectrum that plumeria is responsive to is called the photosynthetic active radiation (PAR). PAR accounts for the 400-700 nanometer wavelengths that plants see and utilize for growth and development. When playing with the spectrum that you apply to your plumerias, it allows you to forgo the use of plant growth regulators that can have potential weird side effects on your plumeria. By discovering the desired balance of spectrum and an ideal number of “daylight” hours your plumeria prefers, you can manage growth naturally (the preferred growing method).

Green Doesn’t Mean Grow

Your plumeria appears green because it is the color of light they do not absorb and actually reflect. Plants have no use for the color green on the light spectrum and as a result, is the color we perceive with our eyes when looking at them. Plants also appear green due to the chloroplasts in the leaves of your plants that produce chlorophyll and are the energy production system of the plumeria.

Red Light District

Plants have a photoreceptor that is blue-green in color and called a phytochrome. The sole job of phytochrome is to absorb red light. The absorption of red light will increase your plumeria’s production of a hormone called metropolis.  This hormone prevents the degradation of chlorophyll in the foliage of your plumeria and is what allows a plant to stay green during the spring and summer months. The more chlorophyll that your plants have, the higher ability they have to process more energy and promote their own growth. Red light also helps your plants to determine when to flower and affects seed formation.

The secondary colors on the red side of the spectrum (yellow and orange) have a similar, but less intense, effect as a red light would.

Due to the effect that red light has on triggering the flowering phase of your plumeria you should avoid exposing your plants to red light during their dark period.  This means not opening the door to your grow space for any reason during their dormant hours or having any other lights within your grow space that may affect them (i.e. power cord power buttons, automated controller LED lights). We recommend covering any lights with black electrical tape to minimize exposure to unintentional light sources.  It may seem melodramatic but, just like your emo best friend, your plumeria is sensitive little souls. The exposure can extend the vertical growth period and put off the flowering phase. 

Blue Hue

Just as with the exposure to red light, plants also have a photoreceptor that uses blue, indigo, and ultraviolet light. The blue photoreceptor is called a cryptochrome. In the presence of elevated blue light, which is typically emitted more by the sun in the fall season, a plant will slow its vertical growth. This is due to the fact that blue light slows down the production of the hormone called auxin. Auxin is responsible for both root development and vertical growth. When the production of this hormone slows, plants begin to branch out laterally, growing more bushier as opposed to taller.

Plumeria also uses blue light to determine how much or how little to open their stoma (the pores of the plant responsible for taking in CO2 and emitting water and oxygen). The plumeria reads the amount of blue light present and will use this information to either increase growth or to slow development and go into the flowering phase.

The far side of the blue spectrum enters into the ultraviolet territory and can be both beneficial and harmful for your plumeria. Just like the UV effect on your skin, it can cause DNA and membrane damage. However, UV can also increase the production of anthocyanin, which can give your plumeria a purple hue but also help your plants naturally defend themselves against lethal microorganisms. It is a delicate balance. 

Light My Way

There are many different light methods that have been used in the growing industry. More recently, the norm has shifted towards the use of mixed spectrum lights that are composed of both red and blue spectrums, created to mimic the sun. Daylight as we call it is full spectrum.  The only downfall to daylight is that in some cases its can be too much light. You will notice that many times at the brightest time of the day plumeria will drop their leaves and basically shut down photosynthesis. You can see this in garden centers when the plant description tells you how much exposure the plant really likes.

This balance is best set at a 5:1 red to blue light ratio but there are many growers that still use plant or light transfer methods. By this we mean, either changing out your bulbs from a primarily red to blue light when ready to move into the flowering stage in smaller operations. For larger operations, it may be easier to move your plumeria into a “finishing room” with a higher blue spectrum lighting.

You can create your own custom light spectrums by being intentional when combining and choosing your grow lights. When customizing your lighting spectrum, we are big fans of Hortilux bulbs. You can select lights, such as the Hortilux family, to fill your four lamps or eight lamp fixture to create a blue specific formula to use during your veg cycle. You can also select from their FLOWER line to let your flowering/fruiting plants reap the rewards. If you are looking to create a mixed spectrum fixture, you can combine lamps that will help to stimulate an outdoor growing environment and allow you to avoid any exchange or further thoughts to your grow lights than routine maintenance. 

The More You Know, The Better You Grow!

Step Into the Light

Your lighting system is an art form to perfect as an indoor gardener. Developing a system for your plumeria that gets you the most return on investment takes time and experimentation. To help get you there a bit faster there are a few pro-tips that can help you develop your lighting system:

  • Give your plants a 24-36 hour darkness treatment to speed up your plant’s transition into bloom
  • Stick to a rigid 12-12 lighting schedule with no interruptions once your plants have entered their flowering cycle
  • Use a light timer to keep your plants on a consistent light schedule and know that schedule so you don’t disturb them when they are sleeping
  • Even brief flashes of light exposure during your plants’ dormant hours can cause damage to your plant’s cycle and can take upwards of a month to readjust

Lighting is an essential element to creating a quality growing environment. By staying informed with our fresh industry information, the more you will come to know how to improve your grow area! Keep your eyes peeled for more information about how to choose the right lighting for your growth and how to use it on our blog page.

Pests & Diseases Guide

Pests & Diseases Guide

Spider mites, whiteflies, thrips, aphids, mildew, fungus gnats, and Botrytis cinerea are very common pests and diseases that can affect many plants, and they are probably some of the most stubborn too. Each one can cause considerable damage to your plant and it is not always easy to get rid of them.

The CANNA Pests & Diseases Guide provides some background information about these common pests and diseases (including the biological cycle), and tells you all you need to know about symptoms, prevention, and control.

Propagation

Plumeria Propagation

Plant propagation is the branch of horticulture that deals with the deliberate (or intentional) production of new plants using various starter materials, including their intensive but temporary care. It is primarily practiced to produce seedlings or clones of plants for planting in containers for display or decor or other uses.

Understanding the science of why, when, and how to propagate requires basic knowledge of plant growth and development, plant anatomy and morphology, and plant physiology.

Plumeria Propagation Methods

In general, there are two methods of propagating plumeria: sexual and asexual.

Sexual propagation is with the use of seeds that is separated from the parent plumeria. This method is so-termed “sexual” because there is the involvement of the sexes, referring to the contribution of both the male and female gametes in the production of new plants.

The propagated plumeria, therefore, has a genotype that results from combining those which originate from the parental sources of male and female gametes. Consequently, the resulting plumeria may exhibit either, or somewhat different, or a combination of parental characteristics.

The young plumeria that is produced from seed is called seedling while clonal seedling or simply clone is used for that which is vegetatively produced. However, the seedling is now used as a general term to refer to any young plant without regard to the method of propagation.

It does not mean, however, that all plumeria that are propagated by seed are sexually reproduced. Plumeria can produce apomictic seeds. Apomixis is the production of seeds without sexual union.

There are several advantages of sexual propagation:

  • It may result in new cultivars and vigorous hybrids.
  • It provides a way to avoid the transmission of particular diseases, such as viruses.
  • It maintains genetic variation, which increases the potential for plants to adapt to environmental pressures.

Asexual propagation, also called vegetative propagation, is with the use of planting materials that are vegetative parts of any plant rather than seeds or spores which are reproductive parts. In most techniques, the propagule is separated first from the parent plumeria and treated to induce regeneration or otherwise directly planted.

Tissue culture also called in vitro culture and micropropagation is the technique of propagating plants indoors under aseptic or sterile conditions in artificial growth media. The growth medium, also called nutrient solution, is a mixture of essential elements. The initial propagule in tissue culture is called explant.

Sexual Propagation

Sexual propagation is the reproduction of plants by seeds. The genetic material of two parents is combined by pollination and fertilization to create offspring that are different from each parent.

Seeds

A seed is composed of three major parts: embryo, nutritive (food storage) tissue, and protective tissue. The embryo is a miniature plant in a resting (dormant) state. Plumeria seeds contain a built-in food supply called the endosperm. The protective outer covering of a seed is called the seed coat. It protects seeds from mechanical injury and from diseases and insects. Also, the seed coat usually prevents water from entering the seed until time to germinate. The seed coat allows seeds to be stored for extended periods. The seed leaves, cotyledons, differ in shape from the true leaves. Plumeria are dicots and produce two cotyledons.

To obtain vigorous plumeria from seeds, start with high-quality seeds from a reliable source. Select cultivars that have a chance of providing the desired size, color, and growth habits. Choose cultivars already adapted to your area. Some cultivars are hybrids and may cost more than open-pollinated types, but they usually have a better chance of producing the desired characteristics than non-hybrids.

Purchase only enough seeds for one year because the likelihood of germination decreases with age. Plumeria seeds have been known to germinate after 10 years, but only 10% of the test group germinated. The seed packet label usually indicates essential information about the cultivar or species, such as the year in which the seeds were packaged, the germination percentage, and whether the seeds have received any chemical treatment.

If seeds are obtained well ahead of the actual sowing date (or are surplus seeds), store them in a cool, dry place. Laminated or foil packages help ensure dry storage. Paper packets are best kept in tightly sealed containers and maintained around 40°F in low humidity. A good storage location would be an airtight jar. Collectors can save money and cultivate a rewarding hobby by saving seeds from plumeria in their own gardens. Seeds that have been produced through insect, animal or wind, or other natural pollination methods are known as open-pollinated. Open-pollination can increase biodiversity, and plumeria will almost always display different characteristics than the parent plants. This is especially true when saving seed from hybrids.

Germination

Germination is the resumption of active embryo growth after a dormant period. Three conditions must be satisfied for a seed to germinate:

  • The seed must be viable; that is, the embryo must be alive and capable of germination.
  • Internal conditions of the seed must be favorable for germination; that is, any physical, chemical or physiological barriers to germination must have disappeared or must have been removed by the propagator.
  • The seed must be subjected to appropriate environmental conditions, including water (moisture), proper temperature, and oxygen.

The first step in germination is the absorption of water. An adequate, continuous supply of moisture is important to ensure germination. Once germination has begun, a dry period can kill the embryo.

Plumeria germinates in either light or dark. Respiration in dormant seeds is low, but they do require some oxygen. Respiration rate increases during germination. The medium in which the seeds are sown should be loose and well aerated. If the oxygen supply during germination is limited or reduced, germination can be severely retarded or inhibited.

Temperature affects the germination percentage and the rate (speed) of germination. Plumeria seeds have minimum germination of 50°F, a maximum of around 95°F, and an optimum germination temperature of 80°F. The optimum temperatures for most plumeria is 75 to 85°F.

Seed Dormancy

Viable seeds that do not germinate are dormant. Dormancy can be regulated by the environment or by the seed itself. If a seed is not exposed to sufficient moisture, proper temperature or oxygen the seed will not germinate. In this case, the seed’s dormancy is caused by unfavorable environmental conditions.

Some seeds may not germinate because of some inhibitory factor of the seed itself. This kind of dormancy consists of two general types: (a) seed coat (or external) dormancy and (b) internal (endogenous) dormancy. A seed can also exhibit both kinds of dormancy.

Growing Plumeria from Seeds

Media

A wide range of media can be used to germinate seeds. With experience, you will learn to determine what works best for you. The germinating medium should be fine and uniform yet well aerated and loose. It should be free of insects, disease organisms, nematodes, weeds, and weed seeds. It should also be of low fertility and capable of holding moisture but be well-drained. Purchase commercial seed growing media containing fine-particle pine bark, sphagnum peat moss, and perlite, or prepare a combination of equal parts (by volume) of these materials. Do not use garden (mineral) soil to start seedlings; it is not sterile, it is too heavy, and it does not drain well. Soil mixes have little fertility, so seedlings should be watered with a dilute fertilizer solution soon after germination and emergence.

Containers

Plastic cell packs can be purchased or reused if sterilized. In most systems, each cell holds a single plant. This method reduces the risk of root injury when transplanting. Peat pellets, peat pots, or expanded foam cubes can also be used for producing seedlings. Resourceful gardeners often use cottage cheese containers, the bottoms of milk cartons, bleach containers, or plastic cups. Just make certain that adequate drainage holes are made in the bottoms of the containers and that the containers are sterile.

Sterilizing Containers

The importance of using sterile medium and containers cannot be overemphasized. Before using the containers, wash them to remove any debris, immerse them in a fresh solution of one part chlorine bleach to nine parts water for five minutes, and allow them to dry.

Starting Seeds

Seedlings are often started indoors often using heated grow mats. A common mistake is to sow the seeds too early and then attempt to hold the seedlings under poor environmental conditions. This usually results in tall, weak, spindly plants that do not perform well in the garden. The following paragraphs give general guidelines for sowing seeds for transplants.

When sowing plumeria seeds, fill the container to within 3⁄4-inch of the top with moistened growing medium. 

Plumeria Seedlings in individual containers are easier to label and handle at transplanting time than those that have resulted from broadcasting. Place the seed with the fan up and the bulk part of the seed almost all the way in the soil leaving the fan sticking out of the soil. Sow the seeds with the fan pointing up or by uniformly spreading the seeds over a tray filled with soil. Cover the seeds lightly; a suitable planting depth is usually about 1/4 inch of soil over the seeds.

Plumeria seeds are frequently sown directly in a small container or cell pack, which eliminates the need for early transplanting. Usually, one seed per cell.

Most garden stores and seed catalogs offer indoor or outdoor grow mats. Grow mats have a precisely controlled temperature. Grow mats allow uniform emergence, eliminate overcrowding, and permit sowing indoor and before warm weather.

Water and Light

Moisten the planting medium thoroughly before planting. After seeding, spray with a fine mist or place the containers in a pan or tray that contains about 1 inch of warm water. When the planting mix is saturated, set the container aside to drain. The soil should be moist but not overly wet.

The seed flats should remain sufficiently moist during the germination period. Excessive moisture, however, can lead to damping-off or other disease or insect problems. Place the whole flat or pot into a clear plastic bag to maintain moisture. The plastic should be at least 1 inch above the soil. Keep the container out of direct sunlight; otherwise, the temperature may increase and injure the seeds. Be sure to remove the plastic bag or glass cover when the first seedlings emerge.

After the seeds have germinated, move the flats to a sunny location; the temperature should be over 75°F during the day and a minimum of 60°F at night. This prevents soft, leggy growth and minimizes disease problems. Some, of course, will grow at different temperatures.

Indoors, seedlings must receive bright light after germination. Place them in a south-facing window. If a large, bright location is not available, place the seedlings under fluorescent lights. Use two 40-watt, cool-white fluorescent tubes or special plant growth lamps. Position the plants 6 inches below the light source and provide 16 hours of light daily. As the seedlings grow, the lights should be raised.

Transplanting Seedlings

Plumeria seeds not seeded individually must eventually be transplanted into their own containers as seedlings to give them proper growing space. A common mistake is to leave the seedlings in the flat or common container too long. The ideal time to transplant young seedlings is when the first true leaves appear.

For grouped seedlings, dig up the small plants carefully with a knife or plant label. Let the group of seedlings fall apart and pick out individual plants. Gently ease them apart to avoid root injury in the process. Handle small seedlings by their leaves, not their delicate stems. Using a small tool or your finger, punch a hole in the medium. Plant a seedling at the same depth at which it was growing in the seed flat. Firm the soil and water gently. Keep newly transplanted seedlings in the shade for a few days, or place them under fluorescent lights. Locate them away from sources of direct heat. Continue watering and fertilizing as in the seed flats.

Containers for seedlings should be economical, durable, and make efficient use of available space. Individual pots or plastic cell packs can be used. Another possibility is compressed peat or coir plugs, which expand to form compact individual pots when soaked in water. They waste no space, do not fall apart as easily as peat pots, and can be set out directly in the next size pot when it’s time to transplant. If you wish to avoid transplanting seedlings altogether, compressed peat or coir pellets are excellent for direct sowing.

When setting plants outdoors that were grown in peat or coir pots, be sure to break the mesh on the sides of the pot and to cover the pot completely with growing media. If the top edge of the peat pot extends above the soil level, it may act as a wick and draw water away from the soil in the pot. Tear off the top lip of the pot and plant below the soil surface.

The three parts to a seed:

  1. The protective tissue or seed coat
  2. The embryo grows into a new plant.
  3. The endosperm is the nutritive or food storage supplying nutrients to the embryo.

Asexual Propagation Cuttings

Asexual propagation is the process of taking vegetative pieces of a desirable plant and reproducing new plants from these tissues. Asexual propagation permits the cloning of plants, meaning the resulting plants are genetically identical to the parent plant. The major methods of asexual propagation are cuttings, layering, division, separation, budding, grafting, and micropropagation (tissue culture).

CUTTINGS

Propagation by cuttings involves rooting a severed piece of the parent plant or, in some cases, producing new plants from severed pieces of tissue (leaf cuttings). A greenhouse is not necessary for successful propagation by cuttings. Cuttings are best propagated at the beginning of the growing season.

If rooting only a few cuttings, you can use a flowerpot. Maintain high humidity by covering the pot with a bottomless milk jug or by placing the pot into a clear plastic bag. Cuttings can also be placed in plastic trays covered with clear plastic stretched over a wireframe.

Containers must have holes in the bottoms for drainage. The plastic helps keep the humidity high and reduces water loss from the plant. If a more elaborate structure is needed, construct a small hoop frame or use an intermittent mist system. Horticulture Information Leaflet, A Small Backyard Greenhouse for the Home Gardener, may be helpful.

The rooting medium should be sterile, low in fertility, and well-drained to provide sufficient aeration. Materials commonly used are coarse sand, a mixture of one part peat and one or two parts perlite (by volume), or one-part peat and one part sand (by volume). Various commercial potting media may also be used. Vermiculite by itself is not recommended because it packs and tends to hold too much moisture.

There are several different kinds of cuttings. Which type you use depends on the growth habit of the plant and, often, the plant’s growth stage. The vast majority of cuttings are tip cutting, but center cuttings are also used.

Types of Rooting Media

Peat moss consists of the remains of aquatic, marsh, or bog vegetation that have been preserved underwater in a partially decomposed state. Peat bogs are vital ecosystems. They provide unique habitats for wetland plants and animals, actively absorb runoff and prevent erosion, filter contaminants out of the water, and are the largest carbon sinks on earth. Peat moss has been harvested for fuel as well as horticultural use for many years. Unfortunately, it is regenerated at extremely slow rates, and harvesting this resource is not considered sustainable. Several environmentally friendly alternatives to peat moss include composted bark, coconut coir, brewing waste, and pulp and paper sludge. There are different types of peat moss, some more suitable than others. Sphagnum peat moss is recommended because it tends to be acidic, with a pH ranging from 4.0 to 5.0, and because it usually has very low fertility. Materials such as Michigan peat, peat humus, and native peat are usually too decomposed to provide satisfactory structure and drainage. Peat moss should be broken apart and moistened before use.

Coir pith is also known as Coco peat or Coir dust. This by-product of the coir industry can be converted into organic manure using biotechnology, making it ideal for gardening and horticulture. A wide variety of Coir pith products such as Coir pith grow bag, Coir pith bale, Coir pith Briquettes, Coir pith Discs, and Coco chips are ideal for your gardening and horticultural needs. Coir pith not only revitalizes your plants but also induces uniformity in growth by enhancing water retention and microbial activity. Coir pith contains quality nutrients that keep the soil healthy in a natural way. It acts as a top dressing that helps maintain moisture and reconditions the soil. Coir pith enhances the nutrient carrying capacity of plants.  Sustainable agriculture practices such as this create a healthy perfect loop from table to earth. Pure and natural, this organic biodegradable matter is an economical and natural alternate for Rockwool slabs, peat moss, and perlite.

Vermiculite is a sterile, lightweight medium produced by heating a type of clay to 2000°F. Vermiculite holds large quantities of air, water, and nutrients. The pH usually ranges from 6.5 to 7.2. Vermiculite is available in four particle sizes. Use the larger-sized particles because they provide better soil aeration. For horticultural mixes, sizes 2 or 3 are generally used.

Perlite is produced from a type of volcanic rock that is crushed, screened, and then heated to approximately 1400°F. The result is a very lightweight, porous material. Its principal value in propagation mixtures is aeration. It does not hold water and nutrients as well as vermiculite. The pH ranges from 7.0 to 7.5. Sometimes perlite can cause fluoride burn, usually on the leaf tips of some foliage plants.

Sand consists of small, weathered rock particles, usually silicaceous in origin. It is heavy and has no nutrient value. Sand occurs in different grades; sharp builders’ sand is best for propagation. Fine sands are not recommended. Sterilize sand before using it; sand may contain various disease pathogens, weeds, and weed seeds.

Bark, partially decomposed pine bark, is often used as a rooting medium. Milled pine bark is lightweight, has a pH of 5.8 to 6.0, and is capable of holding nutrients while providing excellent drainage and aeration.

Leaf-Bud Cuttings

Leaf-bud cuttings are used when space or cutting material is limited. Each node on a stem can be treated like a cutting. The cutting consists of a leaf blade, a petiole, and a short piece of stem with an attached axillary bud. Place cuttings in the medium with the bud covered (to 1 inch) and the leaf exposed. A modified version of a leaf-bud cutting, referred to as a single node cutting, can be prepared simply by cutting the stem below and above the leaf, petiole having a well-developed axillary bud. Examples of plants propagated this way include blackberry, camellia, clematis, devil’s ivy, dracaena, grape ivy, heart-leaf philodendron, jade plant, mahonia, rhododendron, and rubber plant.

Center Cuttings

A center cutting is an easy way to propagate some overgrown, leggy plumeria. Leafless stem sections (12 to 18 inches long) are cut from older stems. Each center-cut should contain multiple leaf nodes. Insert the cutting vertically with about 3″ of the cutting below the surface of the medium, and leave a bud facing upward. Center cuttings are usually potted when roots and new shoots appear.

Tip Cuttings

Propagation by stem cuttings is the most commonly used method for plumeria plants. Typically, tip cuttings of some cultivars and varieties are more difficult to root successfully; however, cuttings from almost all plumeria trees can be rooted.

Types of Stem Cuttings

The four main types of stem cuttings are herbaceous, softwood, semi-hardwood, and hardwood. These terms reflect the growth stage of the stock plant, which is one of the most important factors influencing whether cuttings produce roots. Calendar dates are useful only as guidelines. Refer to Table 13–2 for more information on optimum growth stages for rooting stem cuttings of various woody ornamentals.

  • Softwood cuttings are prepared from soft, succulent, new growth of woody plants, just as it begins to harden (mature). It is believed by many this type of cutting is best for grafting. Shoots are suitable for making softwood cuttings when they still have a gradation of leaf size (oldest leaves are mature whereas the newest leaves are still small). This stage typically occurs in May, June, or July. The soft shoots are quite tender, and extra care must be taken to keep them from drying out and are not considered good for rooting and have a greater tendency to root.
  • Semi-hardwood cuttings are usually prepared from partially mature wood of the current season’s growth, just after a flush of growth. This type of cutting normally is made from mid-June to late summer. The wood is reasonably firm and the leaves are of mature size.
  • Hardwood cuttings are taken from mature stems from the previous year’s growth in late winter or early spring. Plants are generally just coming out of dormancy with some obvious signs of active growth. The wood is firm and does not bend easily. Hardwood cuttings are most often used for rooting. A straight single tip cutting is the most commonly used stem cutting.

Procedures for Rooting Woody Stem Cuttings

Cuttings should generally consist of the current or past season’s growth. Avoid material with flower buds. Remove any flowers and flower buds when preparing cuttings so the cuttings’ energy can be used in producing new roots rather than flowers. Take cuttings from healthy, disease-free plants.

The fertility status of the stock (parent) plant can influence rooting. Avoid taking cuttings from plants that show symptoms of nutrient deficiency. Conversely, plants that have been fertilized heavily, particularly with nitrogen, also may not root well. The stock plant should not be under water stress. In general, cuttings taken from young plants root quicker than cuttings taken from older, more mature plants. Cuttings from lateral shoots often root better than cuttings from terminal shoots.

Early morning is the best time to take cuttings because the plant is fully turgid. It is important to keep the cuttings cool and moist until they are stuck. An ice chest or a dark plastic bag with wet paper towels may be used to store cuttings. If there will be a delay in sticking cuttings, store them in a plastic bag in a refrigerator.

While terminal bud ends of the stem are best, a long shoot can be divided into several cuttings. Cuttings are generally 4 to 6 inches long. Use a sharp, thin ­bladed pocketknife or sharp pruning shears. Dip the cutting tool in rubbing alcohol or a mixture of one part bleach to nine parts water to prevent transmitting diseases from infected plant parts to healthy ones.

Remove the leaves on the lower one-third to one-half of the cutting. On large-leafed plants, the remaining leaves may be cut in half perpendicular to the midvein to reduce moisture loss and conserve space in the rooting area.

During the preparation of stem cuttings of particular woody species, the lower portion of the stem that is inserted into the rooting media is deliberately wounded, which is done to stimulate rooting. Most species do not require wounding, but some benefit greatly from this practice.

There are two general types of wounds, light and heavy. A light wound consists of two or four equidistant vertical cuts, administered with a knife or single-edge razor blade, to the lower portion (approximately 1 to 1½-inches) of the cutting. The cuts go through the bark into the wood but are not deep enough to split the stem. Many conifer cuttings respond to light wounds. On the other hand, a heavy wound consists of the removal of a thin strip of bark on one or opposite sides of the lower 1 to 1½-inches of a cutting, exposing the green tissue just beneath the bark termed the cambium. Be careful when applying a heavy wound not to remove (scrape) all the bark from the lower portion of the stem as this kills the cutting or prevents it from rooting. Species that respond to heavy wounding include magnolias and evergreen rhododendrons. As mentioned previously, most species do not require wounding. There is nothing wrong, however, with using wounding, whether it be light or heavy, on all species provided it is done properly. Also, wounding by itself is of no benefit unless cuttings are treated with root-promoting compounds after wounding.

Treating cuttings with root-promoting compounds (chemicals), particularly for difficult-to-root species, is a common practice when rooting woody stem cuttings because these compounds increase the percentage of cuttings that form roots, speed up the rooting process (make the cuttings root faster), increase the uniformity of rooting, and lastly increase the number and quality of roots produced per cutting. Root-promoting compounds are generally available commercially in two forms, powders or liquids.

When treating cuttings with root-promoting compounds, prevent possible contamination of the entire supply (stock) of formulation by putting some in a separate container before treating cuttings. Any material remaining after treatment should be discarded and not returned to the original container. Be sure to tap the lower portion of the cutting to remove excess material when using a powder formulation. If the base of the cutting is not moist, moisten it with water before applying a powder formulation so the powder adheres to the base. Once the cuttings have been treated with a powder formulation, use a dibble for inserting them into the rooting medium so the powder stays on during insertion. When treating cuttings with a liquid formulation of a root-promoting compound, dip the lower ½-inch to 2 inches of a cutting into the solution for 1 to 2 seconds followed by 15 to 20 minutes of air-drying; then insert the cutting into the rooting medium without the use of a dibble.

Use a rooting medium such as coarse sand, pine bark, or a mixture of one part peat and one or two parts perlite (by volume), or peat and sand (1:1 by volume). The rooting medium should be sterile, low in fertility, sufficiently well drained to permit aeration, and moisture retentive enough so that it does not have to be watered too frequently. Moisten the medium before inserting cuttings. Various commercial potting mixes can be used. Insert the cuttings one-third to one-half of their length into the medium with the buds pointing upward. Do not insert the stem upside down. Space cuttings are just far enough apart to allow all leaves to receive sunlight. Water again after inserting the cuttings if the containers or frames are 3 or more inches deep. Cover the cuttings with plastic and place them in indirect light. Keep the medium moist until the cuttings have rooted. Rooting is improved if the plants are misted on a regular basis.

Rooting time varies with the type of cutting, the species being rooted, and environmental conditions. Conifers require more time than broadleaf plants. Late fall or early winter is a good time to root conifers. Once rooted, conifer cuttings may be left in the rooting structure until spring.

Asexual Propagation – Other Methods

LAYERING

Stems still attached to their parent plant may form roots where they come in contact with a rooting medium. This method of vegetative propagation is generally successful because water stress is minimized and carbohydrate and mineral nutrient levels are high. The development of roots on a stem while the stem is still attached to the parent plant is called layering. A layer is a rooted stem after it has been removed from the parent plant. Some plants propagate naturally by layering, but sometimes plant propagators assist the process. Layering is enhanced by wounding one side of the stem where the roots are to form or by bending it very sharply. The rooting medium should always provide aeration and a constant supply of moisture. Some common forms of layering are as follows. However, keep in mind these protocols are sometimes modified.

Air layering (pot layering, circumposition, marcottage, Chinese layering, Gootee). Air layering can be used to propagate large, overgrown houseplants (such as rubber plants or dieffenbachia that have lost most of their lower leaves) as well as some woody ornamentals such as camellias. The process varies depending on whether the plant is a monocot or dicot. For monocots, such as Dracaena fragrans ‘Massangeana’ (corn plant), make an upward cut about one-third of the way through the stem. This is normally done on a stem about 1 foot from the tip. The cut is held open with a toothpick or wooden matchstick Surround the wound with damp, unmilled sphagnum moss. Wrap the moss with plastic and hold it in place with twist ties or electrician’s tape. Aluminum foil can also be used; it does not require twist ties or tape to hold it in place.

The process for dicots is similar except a 1-inch ring of bark is removed from the stem. Scrape the newly bared ring to remove the cambial tissue in order to prevent the callus from forming. Wrap and cover using the same procedure as that described for monocots.

After the rooting medium is filled with roots, sever the stem below the medium. The new plant requires some pampering after planting until the root system becomes more developed.

Natural forms of layering – Sometimes layering happens without the help of a propagator. Runners and offsets are specialized structures that facilitate propagation by layering.

A runner produces new shoots where it touches the growing medium. Plants that produce stolons or runners are propagated by severing the new plants from their parent stems. Plantlets at the tips of runners may be rooted while still attached to the parent or detached and placed in a rooting medium. Examples include strawberry and spider plants.

Plants with a rosetted stem often reproduce by forming new shoots, called offsets (offshoots), at their base or in the leaf axil. Sever the new shoots from the parent plant after they have developed their own root system. Unrooted offsets of some species may be removed and placed in a rooting medium. Some of these must be cut off, whereas others may simply be lifted from the parent stem. Examples include date palm, haworthia, bromeliads, and many cacti.

SEPARATION AND DIVISION

Separation and division are the easiest and quickest ways to propagate many plants. Separation uses naturally occurring vegetative structures such as bulbs and corms. Individual bulbs or corms are separated from a clump. Most of the spring- and summer ­flowering bulbs are propagated this way. Division involves digging up the plant or removing it from its container and cutting (dividing) the plant into separate pieces. The division uses specialized vegetative structures such as rhizomes and tubers. Indoor plants that can be propagated by the division include ferns, snake plants, prayer plants, and African violet. Outdoor plants that can be divided include many perennials such as daylily,  hosta, iris, liriope, and verbena. Separation and division are normally done in the fall or early spring.

BUDDING AND GRAFTING

Budding

Budding and grafting are methods of asexual propagation that join parts of two or more different plants together so they unite and grow as one plant. These techniques are used to propagate cultivars that do not root well from cuttings or to alter some aspect of the plant (for example, to create weeping or dwarf forms).

Most fruit and nut trees are propagated by budding or grafting.

The scion consists of a short stem piece with one or more buds and is the part of the graft that develops into the top of the grafted plant. The rootstock (also called stock or understock) provides the new plant’s root system and sometimes the lower part of the stem. Seedling rootstocks are used commonly.

Six conditions must be met for bud grafting to be successful:

  1. The scion and rootstock must be compatible (capable of uniting).
  2. The scion and stock plant must be at the proper physiological stage of growth.
  3. The cambial region of the scion and the stock must be in close contact—touching if possible.
  4. Proper polarity must be maintained (the buds on the scion must be pointed upward).
  5. Immediately after grafting, all cut surfaces must be protected from drying out.
  6. Proper care must be given to the graft after grafting.

Once the bud has healed and broken to form a shoot, the top of the stock plant is cut back (removed) to the bud union.

Not all plants can be grafted. The two plants should be closely related taxonomically. Grafting between clones and seedlings of the same species is usually successful.

Budding, or bud grafting, is the union of one bud, with or without a small piece of bark, from one plant (scion) onto a stem of a rootstock. It is especially useful when scion material is limited. Budding is usually done during the growing season when the bark is slipping (soft and easy to peel back from the cambium), June through August in the Southeast U.S., but it can also be done in late winter or early spring.

T-budding—This is the most commonly used budding technique. When the bark is slipping, make a vertical cut (same axis as the rootstock) through the bark of the rootstock, avoiding any buds on the stock. Make an intersecting, horizontal cut at the top of the vertical cut (forming a “T” shape), and loosen the bark by twisting the knife slightly at the intersection. Remove a shield, shaped piece of the scion, including a bud, some bark, and a thin section of wood. Push the shield under the loosened stock bark at the “T”. Wrap the union, leaving the bud exposed. Many fruit trees are propagated by this method.

Chip budding—This method can be used when the bark is not slipping. Although all the basics in handling bud wood and stock are the same for chip budding and T-budding, the cuts made in chip budding differ radically. The first cut on both stock and scion is made at a 45o to 60o downward angle to a depth of about ⅛-inch. After making this cut on a smooth part of the rootstock, start the second cut about ¾-inch higher and draw the knife down to meet the first cut. (The exact spacing between the cuts varies with species and the size of the buds.) Then remove the chip. Cuts on both the scion (to remove the bud) and the rootstock (to insert the bud) should be exactly the same size. Although the exact location is not essential, the bud is usually positioned one-third of the way down from the beginning of the cut. If the bud shield is significantly narrower than the rootstock cut, line up one side exactly. Wrapping is extremely important in chip budding. If all exposed edges of the cut are not covered, the bud dries out before it can “take.” Chip budding has become more popular over the past five years because of the availability of thin (2 mils) polyethylene tape as a wrapping material. This tape is wrapped to overlap all of the injuries, including the bud, and forms a miniature plastic greenhouse over the healing graft.

Grafting

Grafting is the union of the stems of two plants to grow as one. There are several kinds of grafting; which method to use depends on the age and type of plants involved.

Whip or tongue grafting—This method is often used for stems ¼-inch to ½-inch in diameter. The scion and rootstock are usually of the same diameter. This graft provides excellent cambial contact and heals quickly. Make a sloping cut 1-inch to 2½-inches long at the top of the rootstock and a matching cut on the bottom of the scion. On the cut surface, slice downward into the stock and up into the scion, so the pieces will interlock when brought together. Fit the pieces together such that the cambium matches on at least one side, and then wrap and tie or wax the graft union.

Cleft grafting—Cleft grafting is one of the oldest and most widely used methods of grafting. The two most common circumstances when one would use this technique are (1) when creating a weeping ornamental tree and (2) when upgrading an older cultivar of a fruit tree to a newer, improved one while maintaining the existing root system. Cleft grafting is best done in early spring when the buds on the stock plant are beginning to swell but before active growth has begun. The scions, however, must be fully dormant. Collect scion wood ⅜ to ⅝ -inch in diameter during the dormant season and refrigerate until needed.

Cut the limbs to be reworked at a right angle to the main axis of the branch. Use a heavy knife to split the branch, making a 2-inch vertical cut through the center of the stub to be grafted. Be careful not to tear the bark. Keep this cut wedged apart. Prepare two scion pieces 3 to 5 inches long; cut the lower end of each scion piece into a wedge. Insert the scions at the outer edges of the cut in the stock. Tilt the top of the scion slightly outward and the bottom slightly inward to be sure the cambial layers of the scion and stock touch. Remove the wedge propping the slit open, and cover all cut surfaces with grafting wax. If both scions grow, one can be removed later.

Some other types of grafting include splice, side, stub, side veneer, and side tongue. Check reference books for additional information. Each method has advantages for special situations.

Care of grafts—Grafting is not likely to be successful unless you properly care for the grafted plants for a year or two after grafting. If you use binding materials such as waxed string or nursery tape on the graft, remove them shortly after growth starts to prevent girdling. Rubber budding strips have some advantages over other materials. They expand with growth and usually do not need to be removed because they deteriorate after several months. Inspect the grafts after two or three weeks to see if the grafting wax has cracked and, if necessary, rewax the exposed surface. After this, the union will probably have healed and no more waxing will be necessary.

Limbs on the old cultivar (rootstock) that are not selected for grafting should be cut back at the time of grafting. The total leaf surface of the old cultivar should be reduced gradually as the new one increases for one or two years; by this time, the new cultivar (scion) has had adequate time to grow. Completely removing all the limbs of the old cultivar at the time of grafting increases the shock to the tree and causes excessive suckering. Also, the scions may grow too fast, making them susceptible to wind damage.

 MICROPROPAGATION

Micropropagation involves the application of tissue culture techniques to propagate plants from very small plant parts (parts of leaves, stems, shoot tips, root tips, single cells, and pollen grains). The small plant part is grown (cultured) in a test tube, petri dish, or other sterilized container with a culture medium and precise environmental conditions. The container and growing medium must be sterilized. Because plants often harbor bacterial and fungal spores, the plant tissue must also be disinfected.

Micropropagation is a rapidly growing part of the plant propagation industry. It is not practical for most home gardeners because of the very specific requirements of the culture media and the constant efforts that must be made to avoid possible contamination from disease organisms. For nurseries, special care must be taken in transporting micro propagated plants from the lab to the store because they are not acclimated to outdoor growing conditions.

Hardening Plants

Hardening is the process of conditioning a plant for growth outdoors. If plants produced inside are planted outdoors without a hardening period, their growth could be severely limited. Hardening is most critical with early crops when adverse climatic conditions can be expected.

Hardening is accomplished by decreasing temperature and relative humidity gradually and reducing water. This procedure results in the accumulation of carbohydrates and the thickening of cell walls. A change from a soft, succulent type of growth to a firmer, harder type is desired.

The process should be started at least two weeks before plants are to be planted in the garden. Place seedlings outside in a protected area on warm days. Increase the length of exposure gradually. Do not put tender seedlings outdoors on windy days or when temperatures are below 45°F. Even cold-hardy plants will be injured if exposed to freezing temperatures before they are hardened.

The hardening process is intended to slow plant growth. Carried to an extreme, however, hardening can cause significant damage. For example, cauliflower produces thumb-sized heads and fails to develop further if hardened too severely; cucumbers and melons stop growing entirely.